I kept wondering what my first post should be about, and since scanning seems a hot topic in the blog, I figure I try my best at making a general “tutorial” about scanning black and white artwork. I hope it will be useful but if there are any questions or things that need clarifying, please let me know and I’m more then happy to help.
There is a common misconception when it comes to scanning traditional line art or an actual black and white illustration for print. A lot of the artists I was involved with are under the impression that greyscale or colour settings are the best way to go. That might be valid for art that is destined to be shared via the internet or thru other virtual mediums, but when it comes to printing, the best way to go is pure black and white. Some scanners classify this setting as line art; some do it as black and white (BW) while others name it BMP. In case your scanner has some other way of calling this setting, I will now list the most important attribute that makes it very easy to recognize. In the preview window, when you scan as pure black and white, the preview will look very pixelated, scattered, and all around ugly. Do not be fooled as the actual scan will look nothing like that.
*it will look something like that (or even worse) in preview*

*random eye-candy*
Now, one other important thing about scanning black and white is that while it will indeed save you having to level or actually do any tweaking on the file, some details might be lost unless you scan at a higher dpi. So I will recommend you scan the files at 600dpi but you can go as low as 300dpi depending on what your computer can handle. Most digital printers will produce best quality when they use 600dpi pure black and white scans, as opposed to 300 dpi.
For professional press the files sent to the printers are usually 1200dpi. Do not worry, you shouldn’t bother doing your work at 1200dpi, not unless you have a powerful computer and don’t mind doing some extra work. The truth is that because you are working with black and white, you can get away with doing 600 dpi because, at the end of the day, you or your editor can rescale your file in BMP mode, therefore preserving all details intact.
When working with Black and White files, you must understand one very important thing, that is, pixels = good! Do not be scared if you zoom at 100%+ and you are able to see the pixels. That is a good thing and proves that once printed the lines will be extremely crisp. Here is a close-up example of a panel line art from Night and Day:
pixels=good
Talking about pixels and how great they are, I will also like to point out that, if the line art needs tweaking in Photoshop after it was scanned, all redrawing should be done with the pencil tool not the brush tool, and also made sure that your colours are defaulted to pure black and white (you can do that by pressing D).
The BMP mode (found in Photoshop under Image/Mode/BMP) is a great tool when it comes to creating black and white art for printing purpose. It can ensure you get crisp lines and also, if you prefer using gradients and greys instead of actual tones, you can even use the different setting of the BMP transformation to transform your shading into tones.
This is recommended for people that do not use traditional tones or any digital toning software, but still wish to have crisp shading in their prints. When you print a greyscale file to a black and white (digital or press) printer, the machine only uses one colour of ink so, all greys and any colour information is transformed into black by default. There is no way to control what gets printed unless you provide the correct one colour information in your files. Now, you can play with the different BMP settings and experiment, depending on what type of effect you wish to convey in your illustration and thru your shading. Just remember, you are limited to what you can do as well as the amount of layers you can have when you are in BMP mode (BMP will flatten all layers and only uses one layer), so when you want to edit something, I recommend you do it in greyscale mode.(when going into greyscale, use ration 1)
For people who wish to use tones, I can recommend the use of traditional Deleter tones, which are not overly expensive (the jr. types) and also have a great variety to them.
If you are on a budget, or you prefer using digital toning, then my recommended program is PowerTone 3. Power Tone 3 is a plug-in by Celsys that can be attached to your Photoshop and used as a filter. Unfortunately, the only version available is in Japanese, but lucky enough the software is very straight forward and easy to understand so it can be used without the need of knowing Japanese.
*pretty power tone box, click to visit the site*
That’s all for scanning. I better stop before I write a whole novel. ^^; I’ll do my best to cover other technical aspects of manga making in my future posts, so if you would like to know about anything in particular, feel free to comment with your suggestions.